ATM - Automatic Teller Misery

Not everything about our trip to Switzerland was a walk in the mountains, as it were.

Image by chisno via Flickr

Switzerland is expensive. The use of the Swiss Franc currency, which it trading favorably against both the dollar and Euro, makes things deceptively more costly. So while you can expect to be understood speaking most European languages in Switzerland, don’t expect to use your Euros.

Inconveniently, the Swiss ATMs appear only to issue bills in 100 SwF tender (roughly equal to $90). You can expect some disapproving looks from small shop keepers when attempting to break these bills. I learned the hard way that automated parking garage tellers do not accept the bills.

Upon arriving in Luzen, the only available public parking was in a downtown garage. Cost was roughly equivalent to downtown Chicago. When we learned that street parking was free at nights and on Sundays, it became my unenviable task to move the car. First, I had to retrieve it from the garage.

The garage’s automatic teller did not accept any of my credit cards, so I had to find an ATM. Returning with a 100 Swf bill, my attempts to pay the parking fee were again rejected. My hotel was able to make change, but this sequence of events took at least half an hour and by then, the parking fee had increased.

I then spent the next hour or so driving around the city looking for an open street space. This adventure took me the wrong way down several one-way streets and to the “nicest” areas of town. Still, no luck on a busy Saturday night. Dejected, I pulled back into another parking garage. This was my least favorite moment of the trip.

Luzern

Switzerland is an example of the benefits of diversity. While larger nation, like the US and France, entrench themselves in a singular identity and language, the Swiss have adopted four official languages. These include French, English and German. Crossing through the central mountain ranges between Geneva and Luzern, road signs and architectural styles suddenly changed from French to German. But throughout the country, you can be easily understood speaking any one of the three main languages.

The German culture is the norm in Luzern. The lager is decidedly German and so are the boisterous evening crowds. It appears to be custom for a crowd of drunk men, following a ring-leader dressed as the village idiot (perhaps wearing a watermelon helmet or being pushed in a baby’s pram) who spends the night attempting to sell flowers to unsuspecting tourists. The revelry reaches it’s height at one of the nearby pubs.


Amid this scene, we searched for a table along the decidedly picturesque midtown river. A scenic covered bridge bisects the river. Beautiful Alpine peaks provide a romantic backdrop for the city. The dichotomy of candle lit dinners and broken beer steins seems perfectly normal.

In the morning, we embarked on a five hour voyage to the summit of the nearest mountain, known locally as Pilatus, the red dragon. The trip began by boat. We were ferried across lake Luzern. Less developed than lake Geneva’s shores, the rustic hillside was still home to hundreds of cozy-looking chalets. I was reminded of a previous trip through Oslo Fjord.

One by See (German for lake), two by cog wheel train – the second leg of our trip. I’m not exactly what defines a cog-wheel train, but I do know that they are used to climb steep slopes. The one up the back face of Pilatus is the steepest train of its type in Switzerland. The car, even when docked in the station, was constructed on a 45 degree diagonal, so that the seats would be comfortably level while ascending the slope. As we climbed steadily into the serene and surreal mountain landscape the hustle and bustle of Luzern seemed a distant memory.

Even Roxy, our dog, was relaxed. She was able to join us for all legs of the trip up Pilatus – boat, train, cable car and ski lift, no problem in pet-loving Switzerland. I’m not sure if she was more impressed by the amazing panoramic from the top of the mountain or the curiously clanging cows high up on the mountainside.

Two hotels and several restaurants provide hospitality at the summit of Pilatus. Several short hikes up to lookout platforms are worth the effort. One even leads through tunnels in the rocky mountain top. Roxy practically pulled me up the slick stone steps, welcome assistance on the way up – not so helpful coming back down. We ate lunch at the summit and then descended via cable car back down to the city of Luzern.


The voyage was successful. Surrounded by beauty, it’s easy to see how such disparate culture call Switzerland home.

Lausanne

Further along the north shore of Lake Geneva, the city of Lausanne stands in sharp contrast to Geneva. Although prices were no less steep, the city was bustling with pedestrians. A lunch time conversation with a local confirmed the obvious, Lausanne boasts a diverse and vibrant population.

Lausanne is constructed on a series of terraces with sharp elevation changes. It's easy to become disoriented and exhausted walking up and down the streets. The exercise required by pedestrians parallels the city's proud disticntion of housing the permanent home of the International Olympic Committee.

Sadly, we only had time to grab lunch in Lausanne. View more photos of Lausanne on Flickr.

Geneva

Where are all the people? That's my most lasting impression of Geneva. Sure the city is beautiful, situated on the shores of Lake Geneva and surrounded by extraordinarily expensive cottages. However, I was expecting a more vibrant city on a Saturday morning.

Perhaps the lull is a side effect of the recession. During our trip to Switzerland, we learned that tourism in the country is down over 10% this summer. Despite the diminished number of visitors, prices remain extremely high for hotels, for food, for everything. Apparently the Swiss Commerce agency has even invested in cost consultants. I can imagine the advice, "lower your prices."

And who really needs a $1,000 watch or a pocket knife with a laser pointer, jump drive, and fish de-boner (this from the Swiss Army cyber warfare and fishing department).

The best way, and surprisingly most affordable, way to see Gevena is by boat. The short trip begins with an up close and soggy view of the city's most impressive landmark, le jet d'eau. This is the world's tallest water fountain, reaching heights in excess of 300 ft. It serves as the harbor of Geneva's colossus.

The city is most well known as a meeting place for diplomats. From the boat, many mansions in which ex-presidents and foreign dignitaries have stayed while negotiating critical treaties. The United Nations' European home is also visible from the water. The structure is, however, much less architecturally significant than it's US counterpart.

View more photos of Geneva on Flickr.