12th Century Churches

By the 1100s , France was pulling out of the dark ages. Anarchy was being replaced by the feudal system. While grossly unfair to the common man, people could feel relatively safe under the protection of their local castellian. At least these noblemen were beholden to god, and as such, commissioned the construction of countless abbeys to assuage their transgressions. Given recent victories over the Moors in Spain and the conquering of Jerusalem in 1098, the Christian God seemed powerful indeed and the more ecclesiastical in your city, the better.

Riding through the French countryside, I was at first impressed by the 800-year-old edifices that I encountered. But now, I realize they are common place. It is still amazing that these churches have survived the elements and social and political upheavals. Many religious structures were defaced during the French Revolutions, for example. So, while most villages can lay claim to a 12th century abbey, the condition of these structures varies greatly.

The abbeys of St. Etienne des Sorts and Venéjan are case studies for this difference. Both churches are perched on the highest points overlooking the villages. However, the abbey of St. Etienne is crumbling into a pile of rock. It's even sadder to see that kids have painted graffiti on the remaining stone walls. In Venéjan, the ancient church stands proudly at the apex of a well planned hillside park that even features an open-air amphitheater and a historic windmill. On the day I visited, the church was locked, but the fact that it still has four walls and lockable doors signifies it's victory over time.

1000 A.D.

I recently finished reading the book "Millennium," by Tom Holland. It chronicles the history of Europe from the slow decline of the Roman Empire up through the conquering of Jerusalem by Crusaders in 1098. From start to finish, I was riveted by the complex tangle of power, faith and tradition and how it all affected the outcome of history.

The author makes the argument that a host of noblemen and religious leaders made monumental decisions believing that the thousandth year of Christ's birth (or resurrection) would usher in the end of days. In the book's forward, parallels are drawn between modern doomsday proclamations including the hype surrounding the unimpressive Millennium bug. Might our own leaders in this decade have meddled in foreign affairs believing that our medieval ancestors were just off by a multiple of two.

By mixing quotations from historic texts with archeological records, the story is told from the perspective of those who lived in these chaotic times. Many of the surviving accounts come from the priesthood, no doubt due to much better literacy rates.

We learn that the church, at the turn of the millennium, was undergoing a serious attempt to reduce simony (the taking of bribes) and liberate itself from the monarchy who cared little for the eternal souls of the common man. Led by the example of thriving monasteries, this is also when the church began cracking down on married priests. Mandatory mass on Sundays was also introduced. People who preferred to worship on their own or who became vegetarians were labeled heretics. Strangely, many hermits continued to be revered despite their heretical tendencies.

The church was ultimately unsuccessful in ushering in meaningful reforms (see the reformation). And in the effort to strengthen the Papacy, so that it did not need to rely on the might of a king or Emperor, a monster was created. To protect its southern flank from Saracen pirates, the Pope authorized a fighting force of Normans to invade Sicily. Although these mercenaries would refuse to leave their recently conquered lands, the power play was repeated in England, where the Pope authorized William the Conqueror on his famous campaign. Finally, similar actions by the Papacy eventually led to the First Crusade.

These historic events are explained in such detail that you can imagine the time and places no matter your current location.